Spain, One Glass at a Time

There are trips you plan carefully, and then there are trips that unfold so beautifully you almost don’t want to touch them for fear of disturbing the magic. Our recent journey through Spain with Wine Lovers Travel was very much the latter.

We began in Madrid, a city that carries its history lightly, as if centuries of stories are simply part of the everyday rhythm. Wandering through Plaza Mayor, the grand 17th-century esplanade once used for royal ceremonies, markets, and far darker moments of history, it was easy to imagine the layers of life that have passed beneath its arches. Just around the corner, Plaza de la Villa offered a quieter kind of wonder, medieval architecture wrapped around peaceful cobblestone corners, preserved so beautifully it felt untouched by time.

That first day ended exactly as it should have: around a table. Dinner at La Posada de la Villa, dating back to the 1600s, reminded us why Spain’s food traditions endure. Manchego, roasted peppers, Iberian ham, a simple salad, and then their famed slow-roasted lamb, paired with a 2020 Rioja Tempranillo. It was one of those meals where nothing was complicated, yet everything was perfect. Great food, great wine, great company, and the added joy of sharing it all with my sister, who was traveling alongside me.

Madrid continued to reveal itself in layers. One morning brought a hands-on Ibérico ham carving workshop, where we learned just how much precision, patience, and respect goes into Spain’s most prized delicacy. Tasting different cuts, each with its own character, and trying our own hand at slicing deepened our appreciation for something often taken for granted.

Later that day, a wine masterclass with sommelier Pilar Oltra at Vinology elevated the experience further. Five Spanish wines, each thoughtfully paired with gourmet tapas, reminded us that wine is as much about context as it is about what’s in the glass. A slow-cooked oxtail paired with a Garnacha blend from Álvaro Palacios stood out as one of those pairings you don’t forget.

We walked it all off in Retiro Park, Madrid’s green heart, where tree-lined paths, fountains, rose gardens, and the crystal palace offer a calm counterbalance to the city’s energy. Watching rowboats drift across the pond felt like a quiet pause before the next chapter.

That pause came in the medieval village of Pedraza. Walking through its stone archways and quiet plazas, it felt as though time had simply stopped. This unexpected gem was peaceful, authentic, and deeply atmospheric, the kind of place where you could wander for hours and still want more. Lunch at La Olma, tucked into centuries-old stone walls, was rustic and satisfying: fresh salad, croquettes, tuna, local wine, and the easy laughter that comes from a group settling into the rhythm of travel.

From there, the journey carried us into Rioja, where tradition and innovation coexist in striking harmony. At Marqués de Riscal, historic vineyards and cellars sit beneath Frank Gehry’s dramatic modern architecture, a visual reminder that wine is always both past and future. Walking the vineyards, breathing in the scent of oak barrels, and tasting classic Riojas felt like stepping through time.

If that visit was memorable, Marqués de Murrieta was transcendent. The estate itself is breathtaking, but it was the hospitality that left the deepest impression. A private menu and wine pairing awaited us; imperial sturgeon and caviar, Norway lobster, wild-caught fish, Galician beef grilled over vine cuttings.  Each course was paired with exceptional wines from the estate. It was a meal that reminded us why food and wine are meant to be experienced slowly, thoughtfully, and together.

Architecture continued to shape the journey at Ysios Winery, designed by Santiago Calatrava, and later in Bilbao, where the Guggenheim Museum stands as a work of art in its own right. Outside, Jeff Koons’ Puppy; a floral sculpture constantly evolving with the seasons. It felt like a joyful punctuation mark on an already inspiring day.

Crossing briefly into France brought us to Biarritz, where fog rolled in over the Grand Plage, softening the landscape and adding to the town’s chic, seaside charm. Once a fishing village, now a relaxed luxury destination with a surf culture at its core, Biarritz offered markets, coastal walks, and a reminder of how easily borders blur when food and culture are shared.

Back in Spain, San Sebastián delivered one of my favorite moments of the trip. Standing at a pintxo bar, sampling beautifully simple bites like scallops, sipping Txakoli poured from high above the glass, it was clear that some of the best meals aren’t the most elaborate. They’re the ones eaten standing up, surrounded by new friends, laughter echoing off tiled walls.

A visit to Gaztandegia Queseria, a family-run sheep’s milk cheese producer, brought everything back to its roots. Watching the sheep, tasting cheeses shaped by milk, time, and care, and hearing the pride behind the craft was quietly moving.

Our final day at Bodega K5, overlooking the Cantabrian Sea, felt like a gentle exhale. Their Txakolina was dry, slightly sparkling, bright with acidity. It mirrored the landscape itself: coastal, fresh, and unpretentious.

Looking back, this journey wasn’t about checking destinations off a list. It was about access, connection, and the moments in between, the ones that stay with you long after the suitcase is unpacked. Spain revealed itself slowly, generously, and always with a glass waiting at the table.