Croatia: A Love Letter to Coastlines, Old Stones, and Really Good Wine

Croatia surprised me in the best possible way. It’s a country where medieval cities rise straight out of the sea, where wine lists rival the views, and where every turn of the coastline feels cinematic.

I’ve experienced Croatia two very different ways and honestly, both were fantastic.

The first time, we rented a car and hopped ferries from island to island. There’s something undeniably romantic about that rhythm: navigating ports, timing sailings, rolling onto a ferry with your car, and feeling that little rush of excitement every time you arrive somewhere new. It’s a great way to explore, especially if you enjoy the journey as much as the destination.

The second time? A chartered yacht with 38 guests—and I’ll admit, it spoiled me in the best way. No daily ferry schedules. No repacking. No juggling luggage on docks. We simply woke up, cruised to the next island, and stepped off into another beautiful town. The ease of it all let us slow down and actually be in each place, rather than constantly moving between them.

Both options are wonderful, and it really comes down to how you like to travel. But if I’m being honest, not having to take ferries back and forth every day allowed me to fall a little deeper in love with Croatia, more lingering lunches, more unhurried walks through old stone streets, and more time with a glass of local wine in hand.

If you’re planning a trip here’s how I’d do Croatia again, what I’d skip, and what absolutely stole my heart.

Dubrovnik: Dramatic, Historic, and Worth the Crowds (Mostly)

Dubrovnik is breathtaking, no question. We stayed inside the walled city in an Airbnb, which made early mornings and late evenings magical once the cruise crowds disappeared. I highly recommend staying within the walls if you can, it’s an entirely different experience.

Walking the city walls is a must and doing it with a private guide elevated it from “touristy” to fascinating. Yes, you’ll hear plenty about Game of Thrones, but the real magic is understanding the city’s layered history.

360 Restaurant – A splurge, but unforgettable. One of those meals you talk about long after.

Stara Loza restaurant -  Small, intimate, Michelin-mentioned (not stuffy or overpriced). We loved it so much, we went twice.

Truthfully, beyond the walls and dining, Dubrovnik doesn’t require a long stay. We added a side trip to Montenegro, which was absolutely worth it, especially lunch at Konoba Catovica, where the setting alone could steal the show.

Zadar: A Short Stop with a Musical Twist

Zadar is pleasant, but it’s more of a one-day destination. The highlight is the Sea Organ, where waves create music through underwater pipes, oddly mesmerizing and very calming.

We ate at Kaštel, located in Hotel Bastion, and had a great meal. Zadar also sits near a strong wine region, though we didn’t make it to wineries this time.

Split: Lively, Central, and Easy to Love

Split quickly became one of my favorites. The waterfront promenade (the Riva) is energetic and fun. It is perfect for lingering with a glass of local white wine. Order the Pošip.

Split is also your ferry hub for exploring Central Dalmatian islands, making it a smart base even if you don’t stay long.

Don’t Miss

Dvor Restaurant – I’ve been twice, and I’d go again. Sit outside if the weather cooperates. The view and the food = perfection.

Plitvice National Park: Worth the Detour (and the Narrow Roads)

Plitvice National Park is pure magic. Waterfalls, turquoise lakes, and wooden walkways. It feels almost unreal. While you can visit from Split, it’s closer to Zadar. We drove up the night before and stayed nearby, which made the experience much more relaxed.

This is one of those places where photos don’t quite do it justice.

A Quick Skip: The Blue Cave

Let me save you some time (and money): skip the Blue Cave. Half a day I’ll never get back.

Island-Hopping: Choosing Is the Hardest Part

Every island has its own personality, and choosing just a few is tough. Here’s how they stood out for me:

Hvar: Lively, Polished, and Historic

Hvar is beautiful and energetic. Lavender-scented hillsides, clear turquoise coves, and a graceful harbor define the island, while nearby vineyards produce distinctive local wines best enjoyed over long, leisurely meals. Days unfold at an unhurried pace. 

Dalmatino for dinner

Fig for lunch or a casual dinner

Winery visits at Duboković or Lacman

Korčula: Wine Lovers, This Is Your Island

Medieval, charming, and fantastic for wine tasting. Korčula blends medieval charm with a relaxed island rhythm. Its walled old town sits above the Adriatic, while nearby villages are home to family-run wineries producing standout whites like Grk and Pošip.

Bire Winery – Famous for Grk

Žure Winery – Grk and Pošip

La Banya – Waterfront lunch that never disappoints

If wine is high on your list, Korčula deserves extra time.

Brač: Relaxed, Authentic, and Scenic

Less flashy than Hvar and wonderfully laid-back. Brač offers a striking mix of dramatic coastline and laid-back island life. In Bol, crystal-clear waters meet the iconic Zlatni Rat beach, one of the most photographed spots in the Adriatic. Beyond the beaches, Brač surprises with olive groves, local wineries producing distinctive island wines, and simple seaside dining that showcases fresh seafood and regional flavors.

Stay in Bol for great food and access to Croatia’s most famous beach.

Lunch at Ribarska Kućica – Incredible views (sit outside!)

You can find excellent olive oil and local products in Bol.

Pelješac Peninsula: Wine First, Views Second

Stretching north from Dubrovnik toward Korčula, the Pelješac Peninsula is a wonderful Dalmatian escape. It is scenic, authentic, and largely uncrowded. Pebble beaches and sun-drenched vineyards producing some of Croatia’s most acclaimed wines, including the powerful reds of Dingač and Postup.  Pelješac is also home to the impressive Walls of Ston, Europe’s longest surviving fortification and its most iconic landmark.

Pelješac is about wine; serious wine.

Villa Korta Katarina offers one of the best winery experiences in the region, with panoramic Adriatic views to match.

Makarska: Where Mountains Meet the Sea

Not an island, but a stunning coastal stop between Split and Dubrovnik. Dramatic mountains plunge into the sea, and the scenery alone makes it worth the visit.

Stay along the beach

Eat at Riva on the promenade

Trogir

Trogir’s magic unfolds in the simple act of wandering. Its narrow, cobblestone streets invite exploration, revealing quiet courtyards, chance encounters with locals, and discreet ateliers tucked between centuries-old walls. As you walk, the scent of traditional Dalmatian cuisine lingers in the air, carried by a gentle Adriatic breeze. 

Trogir also has great shopping, but if you need to trim your itinerary, this is the easiest place to cut. 

Final Thoughts

Croatia is a country that rewards slowing down; ordering another glass of wine, staying for dessert, taking the ferry instead of rushing through. Whether you’re there for food, wine, history, or scenery (or all four), it delivers in ways that feel both effortless and unforgettable.

If you go… leave room for spontaneity. Croatia does the rest.